RABBIT CARE

Rabbits can be kept indoors or outdoors, either way they will need their own cage or hutch. There are many purpose built cages and hutches available, alternatively you can build your own.

I recommend you buy the biggest you can afford as they can never have too much space. After all they will be using it for 7 - 10 years.

The new animal welfare bill states the minimum size for 1-2 rabbits is 6ft long x 3ft deep x 2 1/2ft high, 18 sqr ft in total, also access to a run for daily exercise. A cheaper and better alternative is a childs wooden wendy house or converted 6ft x 4ft shed with attached permanent run. For safety runs should be set on paving slabs or concrete with a secure fitted lid.

A hutch that is being kept outside needs to be at least 6” off the ground, and during the winter a blanket and plastic sheet is needed to keep out cold winds and rain. Do not cut off ventilation as rabbits need fresh air, so do not keep them covered all the time.

In a hutch we use litter trays to help them use the same place for a toilet, which not only keeps the bunnys area cleaner but is easier to clean the hutch.

If you are keeping your rabbit as a house rabbit, please bunny proof your home, run all cables through plastic tubing and don’t leave anything precious to you in reach of the rabbit.

They will need a cage to retreat to when they want peace and quiet, and also for you to put them in at night to sleep. The ideal solution for house buns is a 4ft dog crate with an extra shelf added.

Rabbits can be housetrained with a cat litter tray lined with newspaper and a thin layer of hay.

The best bedding to use for rabbits is Hay, it is soft to sleep on and they can nibble on it as well.

Do not use straw as this is harder than hay and can poke them in the eyes, also do not use sawdust as it can cause respiratory problems and also gets stuck in the fur making it harder to groom.

The hutch can be lined with newspaper, we use large litter trays filled with hay and put in the bed department for easier cleaning.

All bedding should be renewed at least twice a week, and the hutch washed, scrubbed and disinfected at least once a month.

TOYS

Rabbits need to be occupied and they love playing with toys. This can include manufactured toys for human babies, birds, hamsters, cats, dogs etc, But rabbits will get hours of enjoyment from cheap readily available items in the home.

Toys can include some of the following:-

Rattles, Squeaky toys, Balls, Toilet roll tubes, Plastic flower pots, Yoghurt pots, Budgie toys, Cardboard boxes with entry and exit holes cut in to them, Dog baskets turned upside down, Wide bore plastic pipes cut into short lengths and untreated wicker drink mats, baskets etc stuffed with hay.

Rabbits have very sensitive digestive systems and are prone to diarrhoea (scours). Baby rabbits are particularly prone to a condition called Mucoid Enteritis and is nearly always fatal.

Sadly this condition is found in many pet shop baby rabbits because of the stress of being taken from there mothers, sent to a pet store with unfamiliar food, and then on to their new homes with yet another change of food.

Rabbits require a high fibre, low protein feed to prevent digestive problems. We feed our bunnies Science select pellets.

80% of a rabbits diet should be good quality hay, fed daily, with a small bowl of  pellets, and small daily quantitys of fresh veg.

Fresh clean water must be provided daily.

Veg that our rabbits are used to are:-

Cabbage leaves, broccoli, carrots, apple (without the pips).

NEVER give lettuce as this can cause upset tummys.

Changes in diet must be made slowely over a couple of weeks to avoid digestive upsets.

If your rabbit appears unwell and has not eaten for 8 hours, then you must consult a vet as they can get a condition called G.I.Statis which can be fatal very quickly.

Never buy a rabbit on impulse, remember that if you choose to get your rabbit from a rescue centre, not only will you have some insight into its character, but you will generally find they are already neutered and been health checked. Also most rescues are more than willing to offer after adoption support.

Your rabbit will require annual vaccination against Myxomatosis and Viral Haemorrhagic Disease (VHD). We recommend you get your rabbit covered by Pet Insurance as veterinary fees can mount up.

Your rabbit will also need neutering (unless already done at the rescue centre), males at 4 months and females at 6 months approx.

The advantages of having rabbits neutered are that you can keep two together without fear of breeding, they will not get territorial and aggressive and also females over the age of 2-3 yrs old are at a high risk of developing uterine cancer if not neutered.

Rabbits urine can be red and this is normal. However, blood in the urine needs veterinary advice.

Rabbits have little ability to regulate their body temperature and die very easily from heatstroke, so ensure they have adequate shade.

Handle your rabbit daily and it will generally enjoy your company. NEVER pick a rabbit up by its ears, and always support your rabbits back and hind quarters. Rabbits can easily experience spinal injurys.

Rabbits are very sociable creatures and enjoy the company of another rabbit and live a far happier life in pairs. If you decide to pair up two strange rabbits, firstly they must be neutered and allowed 6 weeks to recover, and introduce them slowly on neutral ground watching them all the time incase of any fighting.

Rabbits nails need clipping every 6-8 weeks, check teeth weekly to ensure they are properly aligned. Rabbits moult 2-4 times a year, and enjoy a groom to remove loose hair.

If at all worried about your rabbit seek Veterinary Advice.